I used a SNES DIY Kit and put it into a original NeoGeo Arcade Stick.
And with my old led mod it is a cool wireless device. Working on PC, SNES, Switch, XBOX One,PS3,PS4 with the 8Bitdo Adapters….
a lot of wires…
loading connector with led
light up when pressing
or all four leds permanent on
gunlord wireless with neogeo stick 🙂
here you find the pics for rgb bypass for a neogeo AES 3-4 PCB with THS 3714 amplifier.
No more bad pictures and no more jailbars with perfect picture level thanks to arcade-tv 🙂
R1-R3 = 7.1k
R4-R6= 1.9k
I was lucky to get a new NeoGeo X Console but the battery was brocken 🙁
So i ordered a replacement and changed it …
Look at the blown up original battery (never used, brocken, crazy)
done
and its working …
thanks to arcadeTV we have a optimized Version with THS 3714 for NeoGeo AES 🙂
-cut left side of the three 6,8k resistors for input rgb input of ths amplifier
-cut the left side of the three 75 ohm resistors for output to the din 8.1
-cut BF for sync output to the din 8.1
the perfect voltage divider values for bypass PCB :
R1,R2,R3=7,51k
R4,R5,R6=2,29k
@ AES 3-5 Mainboard Pin 3 Comp Video and Pin 7 C-Sync are the same on both you will get Comp. Video.
After the modification its is neogeo conform Pin3 comp. Video and Pin 7 C-Sync comming from the THS RGB Bypass PCB
For some help of solder side
cable wiring
thanks to micro I got a TX for a great controller the neogeo CD Controller in the PS2 Version called NEOGEO PAD 2 Controller.
removing the original controller 😉
some dremel work
wiring of uwrc
I used a 200mAh Lipo and changed the loading current to 50mA via changing loading R from 10k to 20k
loading led, usb port, lipo
done 🙂
Hi Folks,
here you can see the adhesive mod of a MVS two Slot System in „NeoGeo Style“:
PS: Great background 😉
I found some NeoGeo Cases here and cleaned them up with the help of my dishwasher.
They have a lot of scratches and as I am not a friend of black – I prefer WHITE – like the great PC-Engine one of my favorite Consoles. I make use of white spray on a good old NeoGeo AES.
After some spraying it looks like this:
more pictures:
After surfing the www for neogeo… I found a modified NeoGeo Joyboard with LEDs.
A great Idea, and some dremel work later…
Nothing new for me. The Buttons in the oldstyle Boards are the same as the NeoGeo Reset Button.
I done this mod weeks ago. Some RGB-LEDs and Resistors and done…
If you can’t do it, we offer this service:
http://www.wolfsoft.de/shop/product_info.php/products_id/14793
Video:
I done some upgrade and make the lights switchable.
I am using a analog switch MC14551B to make three modes possible
a) lights off
b) Light on button press
c) all lights on
I am using a NEOGEO AES3-5 unit for the switchless mod today
I added a second Bios from Razoola the UNIBIOS. You can get it at www.wolfsoft.de or unibios.free.fr
Here you can find a good tutorial for piggyback the UNIBIOS http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/
First you have cut pin 2 of the onboard Bio and lift the pin up:
use a DIP 40 socket to make a future replacement easier
Lift up pin 2 of the mainboard and pin 2 of the DIP-socket
As usually I am using the switchless mod from seb http://seb.riot.org/saturnmod/
And the inspiration from Pete Grimes Site: http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/
This time I can’t use sebs pic code „out of the box“.
I have done some lite modifications to the code.
50/60Hz switching is inverted at the NeoGeo and NeoGeo can’t switch between 50/60 Hz during operation. So it is needed to do a reset after switching 50/60Hz.
The Country Mode must reduced from 3 to 2 and I have done some slight changes for make a RGB-LED working. The difference at the RGB-LED it is wired common Anode
You will find the source code here.
red wire PIC Pin 1 (5V) taken from IC HC04 Pin 14
black wire PIC Pin 14 (GND) taken from IC HC04 Pin 7
red wire PIC Pin 5 to RGB-LED (Resistor 150Ohm)
blue wire PIC Pin 6 to RGB-LED (Resistor 150Ohm)
yellow wire PIC Pin 8 to lifted Pin 2 of the DIP-socket
blue wire PIC Pin 10 to lifted Pin 2 of the onboard Bios
white wire PIC Pin 11 to solder site of mainboard (Reset Signal)
pink wire PIC Pin 12 to PAL Jumper right site (LSPC2-A2 TSOP Pin 64)
grey wire PIC Pin 13 to solder site of mainboard (Reset Button)
remove the pal jumper, solder pink to the right site of the jumper
(left site of PAL1 5V, right site to LSPC2-A2 TSOP Pin 64 for 50/60Hz definition)
Here you can see the lifted pins
on the solder site you have to cut one circuit (see red marked area) and solder grey and white
(to split the original Reset Button Signal and make use of the Reset Button via the PIC)
complete mainboard top site
The black wire at the RGB-Led under the Reset Buttons is carrying 5V and taken from a nearby IC
Now you have to add the RGB Led to the power switch, with help of a dremel.
I done it the same way as pete from www.mmmonkey.co.uk
For more power I am using now a RGB-Led with black wire common Anode 5V
english video
german Video
The newer Revision 5 or 6 of Neo Geo have bad RGB-Output Signals. It looks like a grid layed over the picture.
We can take care of the RGB-Fix if you are not able to do it by yourself
To remove the vertical lines you can do the RGB bypass I found here.
First you have a look into your neogeo to see if you have one of the „bad“ Revisions.
use a flashlight to see the number
Part #1
Removing Capacitors, Resistors and replaceing with 3 75Ohm Resistors
You have to remove the four marked capacitors (red,green,blue,yellow) and the 3 Resistors (red,green,blue).
After this it looks like this
Now you have to reconnect the rgb Signal via 75 Ohm Resistors.
I am using some shrinking tube look here.
The Sync Signal (yellow) doesn’t need 75 Ohm you can wire it directly
Part#2
directly at the other side of the mainboard you find the crystal (the cause of the problem)
you have to cut of the rgb-signal in this area, so the crystal can’t sending bad signals into the rgb-wires.
You have to cut both sites to be sure.
cutting done
After further reading the links above, it seems to be allright if you only do Part#2.
When I will do the next neogeo I will check it and give this site an update, because I done first Part #1 and the picture was quite better. After doing Part#2 I didn’t saw any better picture.
Part #3 50/60 Hz
If you have a Pal Revision all games running at 50Hz you have to cut of the connector between the pal jumper.
The following picture is showing a NTSC Console.
Pin 64 of the nearby chip LSPC2-A2 9305 E27 sets 50 or 60Hz.
GND at Pin 64 -> 60Hz
5V at Pin 64 -> 50Hz