I only have the rabbit mod for ToM and saw somebody else have put some little doves into the pinball.
I tried it too with the usual led modding and the help a 3mm power led in white it looks like this.
You can connect it with alligator connectors to a insert lamp and I will try it later in my pinball and looks where to place and connect.
Today I got the plastics
total
at the right place
My little motor needs a redesign for Attack from Mars, because the flasher only on for a short time.
The ufo didn’t turn in this short time.
The Bulb is powering the 4 Leds around the motor as flasher replacement and added 2 more wires with alligatorconnectors to power up the motor. The two wires can connected to any insert lamp under the playfield or GI if you want to turn it all the time…
Look here into my little video and there is in real a attack from Mars and the answer which one is better is ansered thanks to the attack of my little UFO in medieval time…
I will try the motor in a real AFM in around 2 weeks thanks to www.flippermuseum.eu.
Video:
Today I do a quick try to add a red color to the outer 8 leds of the saucer.
Its only a work in progress try and it looks not good.
In the next step I will make a plastic and use some lighttransmitting plastic to transport the light to the 8 points of the saucer…
After my LED work its time to do some moving stuff
Here I got the idea to make the flashing Ufos rotate…
I found a litte motor and put some Leds around it to make it work.
It will be easy to do in the final product. You only have to remove the original bulb and replace it with the gearmotor with Leds around it.
Here you see the gear plastic it will fit into the flasher cab and make it rotate with the help of the motor
First try for the motor
some resistor to make the speed ok
some leds to make the flasher work again
motor into the ufo flasher cab
here you got a first look of rotating…
ingame:
Video:
today I got the right sockets for the motors…
some cutting, soldering…
with both rotating
what you will get
how to exchange…
turn flashercab to remove the ufo
remove the original lamp
insert the motorset
insert the plastic gear ring into the flashercap
After the candlelight mod for the Magic Trunk it seems to insert some new pets into Theatre of Magic Pinball. As there a many rabbits on the playfield I decide to take two and make replaces the eyes with 3mm power Leds in red, because there are dangerous rabbits on the playfield.
This time it was tricky to make the holes for it because this rabbit is tiny around 5cm long.
I done the holes like a Y 3mm for the eyes and from the back to the head around 3-5mm
It works good if you use a 1,5mm at the eyes to get a fix for the bigger hole
eyes replaced
final position of the leds
first dangerous look
dimensions
team
So up some plastics to connect the Rabbits to the slingshots.
For this I have used clear plastics and put them over the originals to prevent damage and to make the mod removeable without a trace
Video:
I done a litte mod to a Theatre of Magic Pinball. The original red Lamp in the Magic Trunk doesn’t look well and I found a solution. I tried the head of a LED candlelight and used a highpower 5mm LED and put it together in a socket for a Lamp
reducing the size of the led and the candlelight cover
As there is a 6V power Lamp I need here a resistor of each 100Ohm (total 200Ohm)
some hot glue
Here you can see the final product
placed in the magic trunk
Video:
First I take the prepared doubleheaded Dragon look here
https://blog.smarterwolf.de/?p=1112
After this I am using 5 Leds to make up the eyes to live and one mouth give us fire for a breath…
I used a 2,5mm drill to make the holes through the eyes and with the help of some inelastic copper wire it was easier to get the flexible copper wires through the holes.
3mm power leds in yellow for the eyes
5mm power led in red for the mouth
As the necks are bended I need to make more holes to get from the head to the chest
If you look from the normal pinball view to the Dragon you will not see the wires 🙂
I have to position the tail like this, so the ball will „ride“ over the ramp without trouble
Some pics in the pinball
The left wing was a little to high and there was a problem with the glass but no problem with the help of a heat-gun. So the wing is fitting under the playfield.
First Lightup
complete view
Today I got a transparent Plexi for the mouth.
Its a first beta try, have some other idea in mind and I will show it later…
Video:
Today I got the 3D plastic. It is scratched with firelines so it looks more real and the plastic transports the light of the led better as standard plastics.
Thanks to my wife to put two plastics together to make it more 3D
Here you can see it attached to the dragon
and finaly
Video:
I done some more pictures and finaly got the wires through the neck. So you will see NO WIRES outsite of the dragon anymore!
Here you can see the cables you have only to connect it inbetween the flashercable of the dragon flasher
a dragonslayer at work!
This was needed to make the wires invisible. I got it and all wires are going insite the dragon.
I recently bought a custom decal set for the targets and the entrance bracket from pinballdecals.com (thanks for this Joey).
But the decal for the entrance bracket is only a adhesive decal and it’s missing the plastic.
I made a vector graphic and ordered a plastic cutted with a laser.
Here you see se original left and right plastics and in the middle the new parts:
I went to a advertising company and get some double sided transparent adhesive to connect the decal to the bottom of the new plastic
After making this one, I am thinking of make a new bigger one, covers the complete bracket…
I do some work for a customer. He wanted a switchless mod and asked me if I can do a paintjob.
As it was very cold in Dezember, I decided to give it away to a car painting company.
It took time but it was good to wait.
Look here for the professional look of a SNES in „apple white“
compare with a wii
Hi everybody,
we currently using our shaker in the cabs digital only.
But we have a ledwiz as a outputdriver and its capable to do PWM to make eg. Leds „dimming“.
So I tried a Dual-H-Bridge, to make it possible to change the RPM of the shaker.
(Now there is no need of a coupler Relais for this anymore)
It works in digital way as the coupler Relais but if you output PWM to the channel, we can drive the RPM of the shaker and make the effect more or less intense.
As we use most output of the ledwiz with 12 V and the signal output is inverted at the screwconnectors I must get the PWM Signal of the Ledwiz directly.
I am using Output 12 of the Ledwiz for the shaker. So I have to make a wire to the 2nd ULN Pin 4 (it will be the Signal Input for the PWM Driver.
Here is a shematic how to connect all together
zoom:
The Leddrive is using dezimal values from 0 to 48 to make a output from o% to 100% power.
As we have a shaker it needed a minimum of 20 to startup and rotate.
If we want to make low sensitive effects it is needed to startup up the pwm with around 20 for a short time and after this we can reduce it to the final value like eg. 7.
Hope silver can add this feature in the code.
There will be needed two parameters to enable the shaker:
a) a timer how long the shaker rotates
b) the intensive from 0 to 48 for the output of the shaker
c) if the values <20 we need to startup with 20 for a short time and the to right lower value.
I don’t know if its necessary, because do we feel shaking less than 20?
Here you find a video:
Video:
Video showing different power Levels: