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  • Forcefeedback

    Here you can see the „forcefeedback“ Relais.

    I will use two, one for the left finger and one for the right finger.

    forcefeedback

  • Button Upgrade, edge painting

    I removed the 42Zoll Display for painting the edge:
    painting42_1

    painting42_2

    And some Button upgrade for left and right flipper fingers and a Button for Launch Button for the Flipper without a „analog“ plunger.

    buttonupgrade

    I used two scews left and right of the backglass to put it together

    dmd_screen_mounted

  • Backglass Part III

    Today I put all together and have the honor to play the first time in my live with 3 screens.

    This give a great realistic feeling of a pinball 🙂

    First pictures…

    backglass_together_2

    backglass_together

    backglass_together_1

  • SuperCIC SNES switchless MOD (PAL)

    Thanks to Maximilian Rehkopf alias ikari_01 we can proudly present a new switchless Mod for the SNES.

    I done the first modification at a PAL SNES, but it should work on US and japanese SNES too.

    Here you can find more information:

    http://www.circuit-board.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1896&start=63 (german)

    http://nesdev.parodius.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?p=61236#61236 (english)

    The mod is using a PIC 16F630 with the following code: supercic

    Sorry the Code here is a newer version, so you have to set PIN 7 of the PIC 16F630 to GND. As here is described with a common cathode DUAL-LED!

    There are two ways to get the new CIC working.

    a) with original CIC still onboard

    To get the supercic working you have to lift the following pins of the original CIC.

    Pin 1,2,10 and 11

    b) removing the original CIC and add a 10k from Pin 8 to GND.

    The following pictures will show way b).

    Here you can see a PAL SNES with the F413A CIC

    supercic_1

    Removing the CIC

    supercic_2

    After removing the original CIC:

    supercic_3

    The usual 50/60Hz Pins:

    You have to lift PPU2 Pin 30 and lift PPU1 Pin 24 and wire it together to Pin 12 @Pic12f630.

    The Console is set to 60Hz if you set both Pins to GND
    The Console is set to 50Hz if you set both Pins to 5V

    supercic_4

    2nd View:

    supercic_8

    Here you can see the wiring of the PIC:

    PIC_cic_pinout

    More wiring:

    You can set the PIC into 2 Modes

    a) Pin 4 to 5V (I used this Mode, see the red wire)
    b) Pin 4 to GND

    And please set Pin 7 To GND, so the PIC is set to DUO-LED Mode (common cathode).
    On the following picture the wire is missing!

    supercic_5

    supercic_6

    supercic_7

    supercic_09

    you can remove the original LED by heat both pins together and pull it a little bit out.
    So you can cut the 2 pins of the original LED.

    After this you can use a DUO-LED (gn/red) 5mm with 220Ohm Resistors. I solder the middle (GND) to the SNES Controllerport
    To play import Controller or thinks like a superscope on a PAL-SNES you can shortcut all 4 Diodes on the controller port. (see picture2)

    supercic_10

    You can use two different LEDs:

    a) a Duo-Led with common cathode (GND)
    You have to set Pin 7 of the PIC16F630 to GND

    b) a RGB-Led with common anode (plus)
    You have to set Pin 7 of the PIC16F630 to 5V

    Look here for a picture:
    cic

    Some Info about the usage of the superCIC.

    You can change between 50/60Hz and Auto Function by pressing the Reset Button for longer as around 0,5 sec. The current Status is shown by the DUO-LED. (red=60Hz, green 50Hz, orange=Auto).
    After releasing the Reset Button the mode will be active. The SNES will not reset at this moment.

    a) 50Hz Mode is active (green)

    If you insert a PAL-Game, it will start with 50Hz
    If you insert a NTSC-Game, it will start with 50Hz (if Pin 4 is set GND)
    If you insert a NTSC-Game, it will start with 60Hz and switches to 50Hz after 9 sec. (if Pin 4 is set 5V)
    If you insert a Game without CIC, it will start with 50Hz

    b) 60Hz Mode is actice (red)

    If you insert a NTSC-Game, it will start with 60Hz
    If you insert a PAL-Game, it will start with 60Hz (if Pin 4 is set GND)
    If you insert a PAL-Game, it will start with 50Hz and switches to 60Hz after 9 sec. (if Pin 4 is set 5V)
    If you insert a Game without CIC, it will start with 60Hz

    c) Auto Mode is actice (orange)

    starting the Game in its native frequence.

    If you insert a NTSC-Game, it will start with 60Hz
    If you insert a PAL-Game, it will start with 50Hz
    If you insert a Game without CIC, it will start with 60Hz

    Here you can see a video, how the switching is working:

    Here you can see a US-Unit with a RGB Led using blau and red part of the LED:

  • Backglass Part II

    I done some holders for the 19Zoll and put speaker at the speakerpanel

    Here you can see the position of the 19Zoll Screen:

    backglass_19Zoll

    to be sure nothing grey/white colors is seen, all will be black …

    backglass_black_border

    more pictures of the 3rd 19Zoll Screen for the DMD

    dmd_screen_1

    The border of the 30Zoll must be in black too:

    backglass_30Zoll_painting

    Here you can see the fan

    backglass_fan

  • Backglass working part 1

    Hi since November I didn’t have time to finish my first pinball project.

    But this week I will do more work, because we will present our Virtual Pinball at the Museumstag 2010 in Neuwied @ the Flippermuseum
    Its open from 14:00 to 22:00 o clock on Saturday 15.05.2010

    Come visit us there and have fun with playing our virtual pinball and around 100 Original Pinballs!

    So here are some new Pictures form the backglass work:

    My first try via MDF look at the holder in the middle for the 30Zoll LCD for the Backglass picture

    backglass_halterung

    I changed to black mdf. Here you can see a router line for the glassfront.
    It will inserted from the top downwards

    backglass_router

    Some edges needet to painted in black

    backglass_painting

    Here you can see the DMD LCD (a 19Zoll) from the backsite:

    backglass_dmd_halterung

    First impression of the look with speakerpanel (a original wpc95 one)

    backglass

    to be continued

  • Balltop milky white with RGB-LED

    today I received the balltop for my Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Stick.

    Here you can see a milky white balltop 37,5mm diameter with 6mm insert for use in arcadesticks.
    You will find a RGB-Led inside for make all colours you wish

    On the left site you will see a standard red balltop.

    In the middle the milky one, right the milky one with LED on:

    balltop_milky_blue2

    balltop_milky_blue1

    balltop_milky_green

    Video

  • Saturn switchless Mod VA0 PAL Mainboard

    today I done the switchless mod for a PAL Mainboard.
    Its the third different mainboard i looked at.

    Mainboard PC BD SATURN MAIN VA0 Pal

    sat_VA0_pal_1

    At the solder Side you will find some Jumper from JP 6 to JP 13

    cut the three circuits at Jumper JP7,JP10,JP12 for Language preparation

    sat_VA0_pal_3

    remove Jumper 2 (50Hz, 60Hz switching)

    Wire PIC like shown at the picture:

    sat_VA0_pal_2

    For make the Reset Button work, you have to cut this circuit on the parts site of the mainboard:

    sat_VA0_pal_4

    Remove the LED PCB. It holds a 5x2mm square LED.

    Replace it by a Duo LED and use some glue

    Left red wire, middle GROUND (take it from the mainboard), right green wire.

    sat_VA0_pal_5

    sat_VA0_pal_6

  • blue Power LED for NES

    today I done a LED mod for a NES.
    Its easy, the most difficulty is to open and remove all screws.
    You must remove the mainboard to get the Power LED PCB.
    Remove the original 5mm LED and replace with a color you like.
    Look here:
    nes_blue_1

    nes_blue_2

    nes_blue_3

  • Sega Master System II switchless Mod

    Today I modded a Sega Master System II.

    You can change between 50/60Hz via the „Pause“ Button.

    The normal function of the pause is still working if you press it a very short time.

    For working with sebs switchless mod, I done some modification on the code.

    Here you can download the code:  switchless MasterSystem Code

    a) make use of common anode RGB-LEDs for brighter Leds

    b) reduce the code to two modes 50 and 60Hz.

    Here you can see the solder site of the SMS2 Unit. You have to cut the Pause Button Signal:

    sms_2

    for making 50 and 60 Hz switching work you have to cut Pin 57 of

    Sega IC 315-5246 (64 Pins):

    sms2_3

    Here you can see the wiring of the PIC16F630

    sms2_4

    For Displaying the LED I put it under the Pause Button.

    From the top its not so bright but it works:

    sms2_1

    english video

    german Video